The bandmembers have changed over the years and Cesar Pedroso has left to lead his own hugely popular band, yet Los Van Van (El tren de la salsa) is still moving full steam ahead. They are an institution from which other bands have sprung and a training ground for young musicians. Los Van Van continues to attract new talent — and crowds in the thousands.

Most of the audience at Kool Haus was from the Toronto area but many were Americans who had planned their trips months ago. At this point in time Cuban musicians are not allowed into the U.S. There were groups of salsa dancers from Boston and Seattle, a group of people from the University of Michigan, people from New York, from Rochester, some all the way from San Francisco, and even some from Cuba’s neighbour, Miami, where Los Van Van has played many times in the past to huge crowds.

From the opening song, “Chapeando”, through various Van Van hits, Weather Report's’”Birdland”, a sing-along “Hey Jude” and some new Los Van Van material, to the encore, “Te Pone La Cabeza Mala”, the energy emanating from the stage was phenomenal, as was the energy on the dance floor. Juan Formell y Los Van Van played for about two and a half hours, producing a continuous stream of sound from one song to the next, switching speeds and styles without a hitch. With each song they seemed to get even better as the music became more African, or did it? The trombone section was phenomenal, but so was Samuel Formell on drum kit and timbales. Julio Cruz was playing the biggest guiro I have ever seen, probably the only way he could hope to be heard in such a large band, even with a properly-balanced sound system such as they had. The musicians were all top-notch and the front-line singers, besides great voices, all had a great rapport with the audience and an ability to improvise with ease.

Juan Formell y Los Van Van’s big sound really has to be experienced live to be fully appreciated. I have heard recently that the part of the cerebellum that processes music is close to the part that controls movement. Los Van Van seem to have found the sweet spot in there, making music that makes you move. It’s hard to stop when this band gets you going. Couples caught in the perpetual motion of the rhythm, would finally break away and leave the dance floor exhausted, drying rivulets of sweat with paper towels from the bar. With the dancing, the enthusiasm and the interaction between Los Van Van and the crowd who shouted responses, clapped the clave and climbed on stage to dance with the singers against the backdrop of a huge Cuban flag, it was like being in Havana.